The forgotten style indeed.

And there's no reason why it should be.

(That Ol' French Cut is forgotten too, but it informed most of the fashionable suits of the 70's...)

Very well done Tony.

RE the Updated American vs. the Ivy league

Im beginning to have an affinity for them both. Especially as I have discovered that I look equally good (though I don't think better) in 2 button as 3-2.

What I still dont like about a lot of the new stuff is the really shitty job done on the darts. Too much puckering, is my term for it, at the ends.  Do a good job, and I'm sold.


Though, I must say, though in decent shape, Im not a weights or big boned guy so I think I am more compatible at the outset with the Ivy 3-2/No. 1 than many other men.  And, as I have always, I still love the look of that rolled under top button, and the No.1's general uniqueness today.

Last edited by Coolidge (2008-02-20 19:45:05)

Thanks TV, great read.  I'm not a fan of the look, but the history and analysis were fascinating.

No, I've never liked the "Updated American" suit--to me, it seems to incorporate aspects of English and Ivy League tailoring in a completely unsatisfying way.  The shoulders are built out, but the waist isn't nipped enough to create that sharp British shape--instead, you have a relatively full-cut jacket with big shoulders, which tends to look sloppy.  The darts don't shape the jacket enough to justify their distracting presence.  The trousers are baggy and reverse-pleated, which, to my mind, is exactly wrong.  The center jacket vent is retained, but minus the charming hook.  Side vents would look better on the Updated American jacket, I think.

It seems an unhappy compromise, eschewing all of the coolest features of its forebears and resulting in an undistinguished, mediocre, bland presentation.  Ironically, the UA suit seems much dowdier than a well-cut Ivy League number, which at least nods to to the whole minimalist/mod thing.

To be sure, stylish, attractive iterations of the UA suit exist, and flatter some (like JFK), but on balance I'd have to categorize it as my least favorite silhouette.

I think I'm basically agreeing with you--it's the details of the Updated American suit that bug me.  It has the easy cut of the Ivy League suit, but eliminates the cool bits (3/2 lapel, hook vent, flat front trousers, a focus on clean lines), replacing them with nods to European styling which don't suit the shape, leaving you with something neither fish nor fowl.

Just one idota's opinion.

^ Key point I think.