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#126 2008-06-09 15:30:44

formby
Member
From: Wiseacre
Posts: 8359

Re: Groupthink at SF?


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#127 2008-06-09 15:34:33

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Groupthink at SF?


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#128 2008-06-09 15:38:28

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Groupthink at SF?


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#129 2008-06-09 15:48:13

iammatt
Member
Posts: 520

Re: Groupthink at SF?

 

#130 2008-06-09 15:56:49

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Groupthink at SF?

Rubinacci is prolly best-known for their shirts among the "offline" cognoscenti, at least those who frequent Barneys, which is where I first encountered the Rubinacci brand years back.  My tailor's wife, coincidentally, ran the made-to-measure shrt department at Barneys for many years under the late Fred Pressman and advised Rubinacci on marketing their shirts to the American customer.


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#131 2008-06-09 16:05:37

iammatt
Member
Posts: 520

Re: Groupthink at SF?

 

#132 2008-06-09 16:05:53

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Groupthink at SF?


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#133 2008-06-09 16:28:47

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: Groupthink at SF?

At Anderson's website under "House Style"-"Personal Style" they describe themselves a bit as a drape look. The absence of side panels is supposed to aid in the drape-itude but to me is merely a reinforcement of slouch. Still, if people like it and it gets men wearing suits, viva la difference.

http://www.anderson-sheppard.co.uk/

if you drift to "Personal style", they have an interesting jacket turn back cuff.

 

#134 2008-06-09 17:22:10

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Groupthink at SF?


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#135 2008-06-09 17:39:05

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: Groupthink at SF?

 

#136 2008-06-09 17:53:33

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: Groupthink at SF?

 

#137 2008-06-09 20:09:10

yachtie
Member
Posts: 843

Re: Groupthink at SF?

 

#138 2008-06-09 20:56:47

voxsartoria
Member
Posts: 44

Re: Groupthink at SF?

 

#139 2008-06-09 22:47:21

DocHolliday
New member
Posts: 5

Re: Groupthink at SF?

The forums, from what I've observed, require a certain critical mass of postings before fads really take off. Note the recent trend for knit ties. In the past, a few showed up here and there, but it's only lately they've become a sensation. Most tailors, then, lack sufficient visibility to get the adulation we're seeing showered on Rubinacci. I can't think of more than a handful of pics of suits from, say, Dege that I've seen being worn. (I'm not a member of LL, so perhaps this does not hold true there.) Rubinacci benefitted from a terrific ambassador in Iammatt, and the fact that he posted his stuff *consistently* certainly helped establish the awareness necessary for the trend to establish itself. More importantly, Matt's stuff looks, to my eye, consistently good. I can understand the appeal.

Rubinacci isn't the first forum darling, and I'm sure it won't be the last. Eventually someone will come along with another tailor, post a series of photos, and that tailor will become the next belle of the ball.

 

#140 2008-06-09 23:12:13

captainpreppy
Member
Posts: 1536

Re: Groupthink at SF?

Nice to see you aboard here, Doc. Give Kate my best!

 

#141 2008-06-10 01:01:28

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: Groupthink at SF?

I like da Doc too. Good to see him here.

Jim

 

#142 2008-06-10 01:23:07

Incroyable
Member
Posts: 2310

Re: Groupthink at SF?

It seems to me that the enthusiasm for Ambrosi is another side-effect of the forum--or fora.


Jukebox Babe

 

#143 2008-06-10 05:06:52

koolhistorian
Member
Posts: 19

Re: Groupthink at SF?

Can I have my 2 cents?
1. There is a fixation with bespoke (mostly with the process, than the style) on both StyleForum and AAAC;
2. The vast majority of people posting pics have a limited sense of the style, but a keen sense of labels - kiton, Oxxford, etc;
3. What I think that they lack is "sprezzatura", attitude, not clothes. You wear your clothes, not the clothes wear you;
4. Some of the outfits are combined in a way that is either clownesque or plainly dull;
5. There is a predominant american style rules thinking - e.g. the attitude about navy blazers, chinos, etc!
6. They are good sources of information, but not a collection of arbitri elegantiae.
Hope I don't get banned after my first post!

 

#144 2008-06-10 05:25:18

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Groupthink at SF?


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#145 2008-06-10 05:31:43

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: Groupthink at SF?

^^ What would make you think you'd get banned?

Other items of mania include the monk strap, cordovan shoes (which might be more BBR), whole cuts (somewhat understandable), light grey suits, cotton/linen blend shirts (itchy), cocktail cuffs and dullest-loudest ties ive ever seen.

The monk strap is especially curious as an icon but less offensive than the light grey suit.

 

#146 2008-06-10 07:09:56

koolhistorian
Member
Posts: 19

Re: Groupthink at SF?

Ups did not take the smileys smile
If I remember well my Bathasar Gracian, "sprezzatura" is more an innate quality than an achievable one by learning or, most, by faking! IMHO when you are detached from your appearance you will achieve sprezzatura (kind of zen "satori").
Re the light grey suits, the best dressed men I've encountered in my life - i.e. Prince of Wales and Albert de Monaco - sported fabulous mid-to-light grey suits.
Monkstraps - I own one pair!

 

#147 2008-06-10 07:23:34

yachtie
Member
Posts: 843

Re: Groupthink at SF?

 

#148 2008-06-10 07:27:40

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: Groupthink at SF?

 

#149 2008-06-10 07:30:58

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: Groupthink at SF?

 

#150 2008-06-10 07:51:36

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Groupthink at SF?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sprezzatura


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

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