Rubinacci is prolly best-known for their shirts among the "offline" cognoscenti, at least those who frequent Barneys, which is where I first encountered the Rubinacci brand years back. My tailor's wife, coincidentally, ran the made-to-measure shrt department at Barneys for many years under the late Fred Pressman and advised Rubinacci on marketing their shirts to the American customer.
At Anderson's website under "House Style"-"Personal Style" they describe themselves a bit as a drape look. The absence of side panels is supposed to aid in the drape-itude but to me is merely a reinforcement of slouch. Still, if people like it and it gets men wearing suits, viva la difference.
http://www.anderson-sheppard.co.uk/
if you drift to "Personal style", they have an interesting jacket turn back cuff.
The forums, from what I've observed, require a certain critical mass of postings before fads really take off. Note the recent trend for knit ties. In the past, a few showed up here and there, but it's only lately they've become a sensation. Most tailors, then, lack sufficient visibility to get the adulation we're seeing showered on Rubinacci. I can't think of more than a handful of pics of suits from, say, Dege that I've seen being worn. (I'm not a member of LL, so perhaps this does not hold true there.) Rubinacci benefitted from a terrific ambassador in Iammatt, and the fact that he posted his stuff *consistently* certainly helped establish the awareness necessary for the trend to establish itself. More importantly, Matt's stuff looks, to my eye, consistently good. I can understand the appeal.
Rubinacci isn't the first forum darling, and I'm sure it won't be the last. Eventually someone will come along with another tailor, post a series of photos, and that tailor will become the next belle of the ball.
Nice to see you aboard here, Doc. Give Kate my best!
I like da Doc too. Good to see him here.
Jim
It seems to me that the enthusiasm for Ambrosi is another side-effect of the forum--or fora.
Can I have my 2 cents?
1. There is a fixation with bespoke (mostly with the process, than the style) on both StyleForum and AAAC;
2. The vast majority of people posting pics have a limited sense of the style, but a keen sense of labels - kiton, Oxxford, etc;
3. What I think that they lack is "sprezzatura", attitude, not clothes. You wear your clothes, not the clothes wear you;
4. Some of the outfits are combined in a way that is either clownesque or plainly dull;
5. There is a predominant american style rules thinking - e.g. the attitude about navy blazers, chinos, etc!
6. They are good sources of information, but not a collection of arbitri elegantiae.
Hope I don't get banned after my first post!
^^ What would make you think you'd get banned?
Other items of mania include the monk strap, cordovan shoes (which might be more BBR), whole cuts (somewhat understandable), light grey suits, cotton/linen blend shirts (itchy), cocktail cuffs and dullest-loudest ties ive ever seen.
The monk strap is especially curious as an icon but less offensive than the light grey suit.
Ups did not take the smileys
If I remember well my Bathasar Gracian, "sprezzatura" is more an innate quality than an achievable one by learning or, most, by faking! IMHO when you are detached from your appearance you will achieve sprezzatura (kind of zen "satori").
Re the light grey suits, the best dressed men I've encountered in my life - i.e. Prince of Wales and Albert de Monaco - sported fabulous mid-to-light grey suits.
Monkstraps - I own one pair!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sprezzatura