All of my bespoke jackets have nipped in waists, but I work hard to have waist, or lack of one, and so my tailor thinks accentuating it with a *subtle* nipped in waist is flattering, which I agree with. Otherwise, I'd have a sack jacket, which, for me, defeats the purpose of bespoke. I could buy an off-the-rack suit at Press for that. But, my tailor avoids the exaggerated hourglass effect and also the flared skirt which English jackets often have, so the jacket doesn't have a feminine look.
An example of an excessively nipped waist, IMO...
http://thesartorialist.blogspot.com/2007/04/how-suit-should-look-from-back.html
Talk about groupthink--check out the comments on the Sartorialist.
Last edited by Marc Grayson (2008-07-24 10:45:43)
I have to say I like nipped in waists, but like most things style related it's all about proportion and restraint. On many bespoke (English!) suits the waists are perhaps a little exaggerated for effect, to shout their bespoke origins if you like. I think in England a very fitted suit is still a sign of a high class bespoke suit so perhaps that may be the reason why tailors emphasise the waist more than continental/American tailors. I particularly like the look of a nipped waist with striped suits as I think it's a very powerful, masculine, I don't give a fu*k look, and I don't find it effeminate at all, but that's my own personal taste.
http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9B0DE1DA1F38F936A35757C0A961948260&sec=&spon=&pagewanted=all
Perhaps I am wrong on the terminology, but when I hear "nipped in" I think about jackets that have a sharp transition from chest to waist and from waist to hips, as opposed to a more gradual, columnar silhouette, even if the drop remains constant. I prefer the latter approach by a wide margin.
I though to, nip in is to, drink (whiskey ), at home.