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#351 2008-07-24 09:37:40

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Groupthink at SF?

All of my bespoke jackets have nipped in waists, but I work hard to have waist, or lack of one, and so my tailor thinks accentuating it with a *subtle* nipped in waist is flattering, which I agree with.  Otherwise, I'd have a sack jacket, which, for me, defeats the purpose of bespoke.  I could buy an off-the-rack suit at Press for that.  But, my tailor avoids the exaggerated hourglass effect and also the flared skirt which English jackets often have, so the jacket doesn't have a feminine look.


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#352 2008-07-24 10:28:51

mafoofan
Member
From: Chicago, IL USA
Posts: 328

Re: Groupthink at SF?

 

#353 2008-07-24 10:38:13

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Groupthink at SF?

An example of an excessively nipped waist, IMO...

http://thesartorialist.blogspot.com/2007/04/how-suit-should-look-from-back.html

Talk about groupthink--check out the comments on the Sartorialist.

Last edited by Marc Grayson (2008-07-24 10:45:43)


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#354 2008-07-24 10:57:11

mafoofan
Member
From: Chicago, IL USA
Posts: 328

Re: Groupthink at SF?

 

#355 2008-07-24 11:12:12

Jeeves
The Gentleman's Gentleman
Posts: 420

Re: Groupthink at SF?

 

#356 2008-07-24 11:44:50

formby
Member
From: Wiseacre
Posts: 8359

Re: Groupthink at SF?

I have to say I like nipped in waists, but like most things style related it's all about proportion and restraint. On many bespoke (English!) suits the waists are perhaps a little exaggerated for effect, to shout their bespoke origins if you like. I think in England a very fitted suit is still a sign of a high class bespoke suit so perhaps that may be the reason why tailors emphasise the waist more than continental/American tailors. I particularly like the look of a nipped waist with striped suits as I think it's a very powerful, masculine, I don't give a fu*k look, and I don't find it effeminate at all, but that's my own personal taste.


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#357 2008-07-24 11:56:02

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Groupthink at SF?

http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9B0DE1DA1F38F936A35757C0A961948260&sec=&spon=&pagewanted=all


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#358 2008-07-24 17:04:41

Nemesis
Member
Posts: 439

Re: Groupthink at SF?


Back with a vengeance.

 

#359 2008-07-28 12:29:40

Cruz Diez
Member
Posts: 1950

Re: Groupthink at SF?

Perhaps I am wrong on the terminology, but when I hear "nipped in" I think about jackets that have a sharp transition from chest to waist and from waist to hips, as opposed to a more gradual, columnar silhouette, even if the drop remains constant.  I prefer the latter approach by a wide margin.

 

#360 2008-07-28 12:52:16

yachtie
Member
Posts: 843

Re: Groupthink at SF?

 

#361 2008-07-28 14:39:47

Vaclav
Member
Posts: 1330

Re: Groupthink at SF?

I though to, nip in is to, drink (whiskey ), at home.

 

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